Final days in Bodh Gaya

Late last night I arrived in Puri after a long train that didn't leave Gaya till 4am it was 4hrs late. But now I'm rested and relaxed. Puri is fit to burst right now because of the upcoming Hindu festival at the Jangannath Temple built in the 12th century I haven't been yet, but I plan to have a look. Non-Hindus cannot enter the temple but the view from across the street is supposed to be not bad. I found a nice, cheap room this morning at the Derby hotel. It is a small guest house close enough to the ocean you can hear it and it has a nice little garden restaurant to read in. My luggage has doubled since arriving in India because of how cheap the books were in Bodh Gaya. I had my tailor make me a bag (which just fits the maximum carry on) and filled it to the brim with books, so I have plenty to read.

Bodh Gaya was incredible in the month of January. Busy with westerners and monks from all over the Indian sub-continent and the Himalayan region. The tent set up for the Dalai Lama's teachings could have probably covered a football field and every day people were forced to sit in the neighboring fields after it filled completely. He spoke on issues concerning the adaptation of Tibetan Buddhism (and Buddhists) to the modern and he taught from 'lam rim' (stages of the path) texts. He emphasized the unification of the Tibetan schools by picking texts from Nyingma and Kagyupa traditions as well as his, Gelukpa tradition. On the last day he spoke directly to the foreigners, some 50 countries were represented, America, Russia and France had the largest turnout. He told us to genuinely study the dharma and then to apply it to our lives. He also urged us to visit Tibet, as the situation there is distorted by the Chinese authorities. During these teachings and after Jon and I attended Phowa teaching taught by Ayang Rinpoche. For about ten days 10-12 hours of dharma teachings was the norm. These teachings were every bit worth it (that is why I extended my train ticket). I met practicing Buddhists from all over the world and I hope made some lasting connections.

Saying good-bye to Bodh Gaya was easy. That last night I ate a great home-cooked meal a friend's house. Suneil's mother was kind enough to cook for 4 others and I as a good-bye gift, it was delicious Khichadi. The stupa was beautiful, lit up for the Nyingma monlam and the Bodhi tree was truly magnificent. Under the tree was a large group of people meditating, I knew many faces. Some I had met in the Burmese Vihar, some I had received teachings with, some were ex-Antioch students. It was a great community and I will not soon forget it. Jon and I gave the Abbot of the Burmese Vihar a vase and a flower to show our appreciation for his kindness. After 5 months I had grown to love Bodh Gaya for its trash heaps and its history and its people. It is an extremely unique place because of the seeming similarity and underlying diversity the people who visit.